Friday, May 27, 2005

Copper Canyon is for Real

I had heard so many good things about Copper Canyon over the yearsthat Katherine and I decided to join our friends Don and BobbieDrennon and Rich and Leigh Ann Baker on a one week trip that turnedout to be a marvelous adventure. We departed Mazatlan by bus to LosMoches, and then took a van to El Fuerte, arriving just in time tocheck into the Posada Del Hidalgo Hotel and go for a walk around thetown. The old hotel had been recently modernized, and without loss ofthe "old Mexico" atmosphere. We found a great restaurant, called ElTecate, just off the plaza on the opposite end from the church. The following morning we took a van to the train station where weboarded the northbound Chihuahua al Pacifico train. The train wassemi-modern with comfortable seats and good air conditioning. By thistime Don admitted that he had left his jacket on the bus and took agood deal of ribbing before he started realizing he really needed ajacket. After a couple hours of travel in the lowlands, we reached thehigh country, and started seeing trees, lakes, flowers and treesblossoming a bright purple, white, yellow, and pink. Even the cactushad yellow flowers, adding to the colorful landscape.At about mid-afternoon we arrived at the gorgeous Barranca MiradorHotel, where we stayed for two nights. The resort hotel had remarkabledécor, and every room had a balcony that extended over the cliff witha tremendous view of the canyon. There were Tarahumara Indian womenselling jewelry, baskets and beadwork at the entrance to the hotel. Ofall the places we visited, these women had the best quality baskets.This tribe lives throughout the canyon system. They originally livedin the lowlands, but with the coming of civilization, the shy,reclusive people moved further into the mountains and lived in cavesand some wooden dwellings. The men are well known for their longdistance running ability.There is a great contrast between our Grand Canyon and Copper Canyon,as the Grand Canyon has huge cliffs with beautiful red, yellow, brown,and copper colors with no vegetation. Copper Canyon is actually aseries of six canyons totaling 25,000 square miles, and the deepest is6,136 feet. High in the Sierra Madres, Copper Canyon is a beautifulgreen with multicolored trees, and beautiful flowers.All our meals throughout the week were on the American plan, andserved family style so our lives were not complicated by having tostudy menus. The food was excellent at every stop. After dinner aMexican guest found a guitar and began singing beautiful songs. Peoplearound him picked up the beat and before long a Mexican mother andadult daughter were dancing. It was a wonderful way to end our firstnight in Copper Canyon.On Saturday we took a van to visit Creel, a town of primarilyTarahumara Indians. The best way to describe Creel is "tourist trap."There may be some other industry there but I sure couldn't find it.The town consisted mostly of gift shops, restaurants and hotels.Indian ladies in colorful dresses were everywhere either sewing dollsor weaving baskets while selling their wares. It was really cool witha cold wind so I took pity on Don and loaned him one of my jackets. Wewent to Arareco Lake where the huge rocks went down to the watersedge. We took along box lunches prepared by the hotel staff, andenjoyed a picnic while watching Mexican families frolicking onholiday. Afterward we visited the "Valley of the frogs and mushrooms,"named because of the many boulders that have taken the shape of frogsand mushrooms. We also visited a huge cave in which an Indian mannamed Sebastian had lived his entire life until three years ago, whenhe died at the age of 106. His extended family still lived there andthe cave was a real "Kodak moment," with the unique rooms that wereopened to us during the tour. That evening the hotel provided a manwho sang Mexican songs, and although he had a good deal of audienceparticipation, it was obvious that he was not the hit of the impromptusinger of the previous night.On Easter Sunday a tour guide named Daniel drove us around the area,pointing out the various trees, which included: Red, white, silver,and Magnolia Oak; Mexican, Chihuahua, Durango, Ponderosa, Apache, andsad Pine; Madrona—that had a red bark; Manzanita; and Juniper. All ofwhich with their copper, red, green, and brown colors gave amagnificent look of fall in the springtime. High above the canyon wasa rock outcropping with a fairly flat rock seating on its center. Itwas named "balancing rock" and Daniel demonstrated how to stand on therock while shifting weight to make it wobble. After he asked forvolunteers, I mounted the rock and he began yelling "rock faster."When Rich asked me if the rock wobbled, I told him I really didn'tknow as I could not tell if it was the rock or my knees that wobbledwhen I looked at the ground, several thousand feet below. We closedout the day with a visit to Divisadero Overlook, where the men admiredthe beauty and splendor of the junction of three canyons while thewomen shopped for souvenirs at a close by "mini-mall."Later in the day we boarded the train for a quick ride to Bahuichivo,where we were picked up by a bus and driven 12 miles over a rugged,dusty road with no scenery visible due to the dust, to a town calledCerocahui. We checked into the Hotel Mision, which was an older, morerustic hotel. Our rooms were extremely cold, but each room had a smallstove and we were provided firewood and a quick lesson in making afire. Each night we built a fire a couple hours before bed time, thentook our showers while it was warm. We awakened to a cold room andhopped around the cold tile floor getting dressed as quickly aspossible. The hotel had a large combination dining room/lounge, and anadjacent large conference room with a pool table. A pool was inoperation but our group was void of anyone hearty enough to tryswimming in the unheated water.Monday we took a van for one of the roughest rides any of us have evertaken. We were on a two-lane dirt road with no shoulders or safetyrails and the road was in need of maintenance. For a road that bad weran into a lot of on-coming traffic. Each time that happened we wouldboth stop and one vehicle would back up to a wider part of the roadwhere they could pass. Our first stop was Gallegos Lookout where therewas a breath taking view of the Urique Canyon. We could look down andsee the town of Urique, on the edge of a large river at the bottom ofthe canyon. When we got to Urique we took our box lunches to arestaurant where we bought soft drinks and visited with some touristsfrom California and Texas. After lunch our guide informed us that wewere indeed at the end of the road and the only way back to the hotelwas over the same road we had just taken. We stopped at a cave alongside the road where three of the cutest little Indian kids wereselling baskets. The mystery remains to this day as to how in theworld those kids got in the middle of no where with no adult supervision.On Tuesday morning we explored the small town, and then played cardsas we waited for our van ride to the train station where we boardedthe train for the return ride to Los Moches. We stayed overnight inHotel Santa Anita, then caught a bus for our trip to Mazatlan.HELPFUL HINTS: Whenever anyone told about a trip to Copper Canyon,they never told me how to dress. Of course it depends on the season,as it is cold in the winter and hot and rainy in the summer. Since ourtrip was from March 24-30, we decided to use layers—and guessed right.Every day it was sunny, but with a very chilly wind most of the daysin the high altitude. When we went on the tours we wore long pants,shirts/sweatshirts, and carried jackets. Walking shoes are a must asno matter what tours you take, you'll be walking on trails and overrocks. Don't over pack—yeah, I'm wasting my breath, but remember thatyou'll be schlepping your bags on and off the train and to and fromyour hotel rooms.Bring along plenty of change because none of the vendors or hotels hadsmall change like $5, $10, and $20 peso denominations. Further, you'llneed larger bills for tips for the tour guides, maids and dining roompersonnel.Several other tours were available at each stop, including, walkingrafting, and horseback riding. All of the hotels had plenty of bottledwater for purchase.We bought a package deal through Copala Travel Agency in La GranPlaza. Their telephone number is (669) 986-2120, and you can emailthem at viajescopala @hotmail.com. At the start of the trip a van took us from Los Mochis to El Fuerteand it took about an hour. On our return trip the (one-a-day) trainleft El Fuerte at 8 p.m. and arrived in Los Mochis at 11 p.m. A twentyminute bus ride from the station and we were at the hotel at 11:20p.m. Using simple math, even after an aggravating train ride thatshould have taken half that time, I figure we should have had a vanmeet us in El Fuerte and we would have been at the hotel in Los Mochesbetween 9-9:30 p.m.! Trains and nothing else runs on time so relax androll with the punches and you'll have an unforgettable trip.

Charles A Hall
Author: "Mazatlan IS Paradise"

Friday, May 20, 2005

BEHIND THE SCENES IN MEXICAN CRAFT FACTORIES

By Charles Hall
During my recent visits to Taxco, Mexico City, Dolores Hidalgo, and Tonala, I learned a great deal, not only about the production of Mexican jewelry and crafts, but just as importantly, the costs. Many tourists believe Mexican jewelry and crafts should be even cheaper than what it sells for now—primarily because of the cost of labor. That said, I defy anyone to buy the same merchandise in tourist stores in the States, Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Lucas, Acapulco, and Cancun cheaper than in Mazatlán. I know because I’ve tried. The silver jewelry sold by vendors on the Saturday sale days are usually manufactured in a corner of the home of the person making the sale. Precious stones, while some are produced in Mexico, most are purchased worldwide. I visited a Talavera factory in Dolores Hidalgo and was struck by the Spartan working conditions of the employees—mostly women. There were approximately 60 people working in three large rooms. In one room the Talavera is formed from clay and air dried. Then a wet sponge is used to clean off the rough spots. The pieces are then dipped in grey liquid clay. Several pieces are placed in an oven to be cured. A woman sandpapers each piece to eliminate any imperfections. In another dim-lit room I counted 25 women sitting in straight backed chairs with card board on two sides of them, and different colored paint with brushes, and a few pieces of Talavera. A couple of people outlined different designs on the pieces, while the rest of the women hand painted the entire piece. The employees are not allowed to speak with anyone except the foreman. Twice the lights went out for a few minutes and the workers continued to paint. In an adjacent room, the painted pieces are placed on large racks and pushed into a large oven to be cured. Once cured the pieces take on a much brighter color. After removal from the oven, they are all examined for quality control. I observed 2-3 men wrapping the Talavera for pick-up or shipping. Employees worked 8-10 hours per day, six days per week. On the other hand, the glass factory I visited in Tonala had about 30 workers and most of them were men. There were two large rooms.
In the production room, there were four large ovens, and about 25 men and one woman working in teams of two or three people. One was the glass blower, and the others, helpers. There appeared to be a degree of artwork in the shaping of the glassware. One worker got a “gob” of glass and carried it on the end of a metal pole to the glass blower, who formed it. He then turned it over to a “runner,” who carried the piece and threw it into an oven. A man at the oven had a long rod that he used to stack the pieces orderly in the furnace. Most of the work was done at a hurried pace, but no one ran into anyone else. There seemed to be a great deal of debris on the floor and I noticed the absence of safety goggles, ear plugs, and gloves. In the shipping room, a man and woman wrapped and boxed glassware for shipping. There did not appear to be any restrictions on the workers talking. I was told that they were paid by the amount of work they accomplished. There was only one 6 hour shift per day, six days a week. Overhead for the shop owners in Mazatlán is enormous. They either purchase the store or pay rent. In either case, they are responsible for upkeep and remodeling. There is the cost of utilities, permits and taxes. While some stores are strictly family run, others have paid employees. Most shops are open seven days a week, 10-12 hours per day. Remember that the tourist season runs from November through June, so four months of the year the shops are opened but not many sales made. During the merchandise buying trip I went on with my friends Paco and Marta Miranda, I learned of additional expenses to purchase merchandise. The purchase price and upkeep of the large van to carry merchandise is a major expense. There is the cost of toll roads and gasoline. Food is more expensive in restaurants and hotel rental is necessary. Not to mention the time spent away from the shop while on the trip which may result in missed sales. There is always the consideration of “mordida,” paid whether laws are broken or not. There is also a certain amount of breakage of merchandise during the trip. What I have learned is that most shop owners are hard working people that are not out to “Gringo” the tourist, but only want to make an honest living.


Charles A Hall
Author: "Mazatlan IS Paradise"

Friday, May 13, 2005

Title: New York City : Off -The- Record: Part 1

Author: Janice Hoffmann
Article:
New York City -Off -The- Record: Part 1
THE BEST OF 'THE BEST'
1. The best bar, the best bathroom, the best bus line, the best block party, the best back-crack, the best Brooklyn hipster haircuts, the best gossip, the best magazine browsing, the best patriot outlaws...Does it get any better? The VILLAGE VOICE Best of NYC www.villiagevoice.com
2. Best Way To Find Whatever It Is That You're Looking For: www.CITYSEARCH.COM helps you find bars, restaurants, shops, and museums all the time—and I've yet to come across an incorrect phone number or location.
THE FOLLOWING ARE A FEW RECOMMENDED COFFEE BARS
3. JACK'S COFFEE -- ‘Jack is no ordinary coffee shop’. Stir brewed coffee, premium teas, live music on Tuesday, and Thursday night movies. ‘Great Vibe’. 138 W 10th St.
4. CAFE MONA LISA - Mismatched antique chairs; outdoor seating; specialties include a double espresso with ice cream and whipped cream. 282 Bleecker Street, 212-929-1262.
5. THE HUNGARIAN PASTRY SHOP - View of the Cathedral of Saint John the Divine; outdoor tables. Amsterdam & 109th Street.
6. THE CUPCAKE CAFE - is close to Broadway and the fabulous 42nd Street area where there are movies, arcade games, and a wonderful cluster of import shops. It is just behind the New York, New Jersey Port Authority in an area where you might not think to stroll. Located at 522 9th Avenue on the corner of 39th Street, the nearby highway leads to the Lincoln Tunnel.
7. HOUSINGWORKS USED BOOKS& CAFE--'Soho's Best kept secret'- 126 Crosby Street, NYC 10012.
HAVE MORE FUN!
8. BIKRAM YOGA-Offering classes in Bikram-style Yoga (Hot Yoga), a form of hatha yoga conducted in a heated room. www.Bikramyoganyc.com
9. GALAPAGOS- 'May be the only public place in town where (while
imbibing) you can hear a reading of Shakespeare's Tempest, shimmy to live Cuban music and see trapeze artists all in the same month.' 70 North 6th St. (Williamsburg/ Greenpoint) Between Wythe and Kent Aves. Take L train to Brooklyn718-782-5188
10. Poetry Slams. With poetry or prose, untried and unstoppable writers gain stage worthy experience. NUYORICAN POETS CAFE 236 E 3rd between B & C (212) 505-8183
11. THE BOWERY POETRY CLUB - 308 Foot of First Street between Houston & Bleecker
12. FILM FORUM- 209 W. HOUSTON ST. N.Y., NY 10014 BOX OFFICE:
(212) 727-8110 New York's leading movie house for independent premieres and repertory programming -- The Film Forum presents independent filmmakers, international collections, complete retrospectives of worthy filmmakers, silent films, and mini-festivals
13. LEISURE TIME BOWLING AND COCKTAIL LOUNGE at the Port Authority Between Eighth and Ninth Ave from 40th to 42nd Streets, 268-6909 Electronic scoring! Lotsa Lanes!!
14. WOLLMAN RINK in Central Park is a popular skating choice. Located in scenic Central Park between 62nd and 63rd Streets. Wollman Rink offers ice skating in the winter and inline skating in the summer! www.wollmanskatingrink.com
15. THE GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL STORYBOOTH is a soundproof environment where you can record your story or the stories of your loved ones located between Track 13 and 14 of Grand Central Terminal.
16. BRYANT PARK a green and sensual urban oasis including "Seventh on Sixth" fashion shows; the JVC Jazz Festival; the "New York Times Young Performers Series"; lunchtime concerts by Juilliard students; Monday night movies in the summer; the Kaleidoscope Circus; boules and chess games.
LISTEN UP
17 WNYC National Public Radio 820-AM
18. WFMU College Free Form 91.1- FM
19. WFUV-FM Adult Alternative 90.7
PEOPLE ARE HAPPIER WHEN THEY ARE LEARNING
20. WARD STUDIO is a coveted acting studio in the Miesner Approach. Offering summer sabbaticals for the corporate professional and intensive acting training for the serious minded actor. 145 West 28th St. Ny, Ny 212-239-1456 www.wardstudio.com
21. DANCE THEATRE WORKSHOP @ 219 West 19th St. is about supporting and advancing the work of artists - constantly evolving to sustain artists at every stage of their development. They provide a wide range of administrative, promotional and technical services to the community of independent artists in New York, across the country and around the world.
22. THE INSTITUE OF CULINARY EDUCATION- was named "Avocational Cooking School of the Year" by the International Association of Culinary Professionals. ICE has three divisions: Recreational, Career and Special Events: 50 West 23rd Street between 5th and 6th Avenues www.iceculinary.com
23. ANNE BOGART AND SITI TRAINING. Disinct, challenging and innovative methods of actor training. Viewpoints & Suzuki, Master Classes- Guest Artist Series, Drop-in Classes. www.siti.org
24. CRUSH WINE CO. 153 E. 57th St. offers a quick wine tasting primer for $50.
GREAT PUBLIC SPACES
25. PALEY PARK @ 53rd Street between Madison and Fifth Avenues. Located within Midtown's cultural district and surrounded by high-rises, this celebrated "vest-pocket" park is a welcome respite from the sights and sounds of urban living.
24. NY PUBLIC LIBRARY @ 42nd street and Madison boasts a gorgeous reading room that would make anyone feel like royalty - indeed, it rivals the ballrooms of European palaces. But out in front, along the street, is where this illustrious institution truly connects with the city around it. A series of well-linked spaces - steps, plazas, little nooks and pathways - provide innumerable places for sitting, meeting, eating and chatting.
26.CONEY ISLAND streets, buildings, public beach and boardwalk may be a bit down at the heels, but it remains a one-of-a-kind destination. Vicinity of Surf Avenue & West 15th Street, Brooklyn, NY www.coneyisland.com
27. HUA MEI BIRD GARDEN Community garden that hosts daily, early-morning gatherings of Chinese men who bring beautiful songbirds in fancy bamboo cages. Sara Delano Roosevelt Park. Lower East Side, New York, NY
28. GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL- One of the most well known and impressive indoor public spaces in the country, Grand Central
Terminal- provides an unparalleled experience to over half a million people every day. Park Avenue and 42nd Street, New York City, NY
29. METROPOLITAN MUSEUM STEPS- The grand, granite steps leading to The Metropolitan Museum of Art are a destination themselves: a place to meet, eat, talk, and watch both people and Fifth Avenue traffic. Fifth Avenue from 80th - 84th Streets, New York, NY
IN PRAISE OF THE LOCAL BOOKSTORE. -- Owning a bookstore is a labor of love, and the financial rewards are slender. Independently owned businesses, like bookstores, drugstores or hardware stores, help define a community.
30. " Oh joy! Oh Rapture!" COLISEUM BOOKS, WELCOME BACK!! 11 W. 42nd Street New York, NY Phone: (212) 803-5890. Across the street from Bryant Park.
31. LABYRINTH BOOKS- 536 West 112th Street, for university presses.
32.ST. MARKS BOOKS- 31 Third Avenue, for a wide selection of all books.
33. THREE LIVES AND CO. 154 West 10th Street, for fiction.
34. THE DRAMA BOOK SHOP Drama Books is one of the largest book stores specializing in theatre related material. 250 W. 40th St
Phone: (212) 944-0595
SMALL BUSINESSES MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE
35. A beautifully made hat is a headturner. BARBARA FEINMAN
MILLINERY- 66 East 7th Street NY, NY 212-358-7092.
36. Wahoo! Elisa Miller knows how to throw a class act Swank! SOMEDAY PRODUCTIONS handles all aspects of party and event
planning-- 347-432-8949 www.somedayproductions.com
37. GO YOGA- Located in the heart of Williamsburg, Brooklyn. A small, friendly Yoga Center offering a variety of classes all day - every day. Go Yoga is located within the Girdle factory
at: 218 Bedford Avenue Brooklyn NY. www.goyoga.com
TO MARKET WE GO
38. GREENMARKET FARMERS MARKET is a program of the Council on the Environment of NYC, promoting regional agriculture and ensures a continuing supply of fresh, local produce for New Yorkers. Comprehensive regulations govern what may be sold at a Greenmarket. With few exceptions, all items must be grown, raised, foraged, caught, or otherwise produced by the seller. www.cenyc.org
39. CHELSEA MARKET includes The Juice Factory, Amy's Bread, Chelsea Wholesale Flower Market, Fat Witch, Chelsea Wine Vault, Hale and Hearty Soups and lots more.... Eat, browse and leisurely stroll. 75 9th Avenue New York, NY 10011
40. UNION SQUARE PARK AND GREENMARKET- Three-square-block urban park that hosts a year-round, open-air farmers market four times a week. 14th Street and Broadway, New York, NY
About the author:
Janice Hoffmann is Ceo and founder of Success Is Sweetest www.successissweetest.com A New York City based Career and Lifestyle Coaching Boutique

Monday, May 09, 2005

Thank you Letter

Hi Yvon,

I would like to thank you for recommending Mazatlan, Mexico to Linda and I as a vacation destination this year. We recently returned from a beautiful, fun filled and very exciting holiday in Mazatlan and look forward to going back again someday soon.
The tours we went on with ”Mazatlan Frank” were the best and informative tours we can ever recall taking. We really enjoyed the
country tour to Copala, and as we stopped at the towns and villages along the way we kind of got a feeling of how life is in Mexico, and that was a trip in its self, not to forget the fantastic lunch followed by the famous homemade banana cream pie when we stopped at Copala. When we got back to Mazatlan we went on the city tour with Frank, and again we were treated to the best viewing locations and had a very informative history lesson along the way. Frank also stopped at a few great shopping locations so we could satisfy that holiday shopping urge…THANKS TO FRANK. (www.mazatlan-frank.com)

We also went horseback riding on what seemed like an endless beach of coconut palm trees on Stone Island..BEAUTIFUL!!!
Thanks for also recommending Randi’s Happy Horses to us and yes you were right, the lunch at “Victors” on the beach was unbelievable!! The fiesta yate tour was also a great time, cruised the harbor, the islands and back in about three hours, and drinks were great too.

We are now watching the www.easytraveling.net web site for another great sale to go again.

Thanks Yvon, we will talk to you soon!!!

Tom & Linda Wilson

Friday, May 06, 2005

A Buying Trip and Lessons Learned

When Paco and Marta Miranda, owners of “Here Is Paco’s jewelry and gift shops (across from Christine’s Hair Salon)invited me and my wife Katherine with them on a merchandise buying trip, I never dreamed of the information I would receive about Mexico and the world of gift sales in Mazatlan.

At the unseemly hour of 4:15 a.m. we stumbled into Paco’s new Chevy van and headed out on our adventure. We stopped at Paraiso Restaurant and Hotel in Tepic and had some excellent ham and eggs and the best corn tortillas I have ever eaten. Refreshed and sufficiently awake, I got behind the wheel while Paco took my place lying on the floor of the van. We buzzed along as beautiful scenery flew by. When we arrived in Guadalajara Paco asked me if I wanted to drive straight through the center of the city. I silently pulled into a gas station and replaced him in the back of the van.

After driving about two hours he turned the wheel over to me. As I was slowing down at a toll booth, four police officers were standing in the road forming two lanes. One waved at me, and I waved back, thinking how nice the policeman was to greet me. Paco and Marta immediately began an urgent discussion in Spanish, and with my limited knowledge of the language, I knew the cop wasn’t just being friendly. I also noticed about 25 people lounging around the rest stop, and in my rear view mirror, noticed that the car behind me stopped and exchanged words with the officer and moved forward. After I paid the toll Paco told me that the cop would probably radio ahead and have someone pull me over. After getting over thinking I was public enemy number 1, I began worrying that perhaps the cop was trying to warn me of some danger ahead. After driving for about another hour I pulled into a restaurant parking lot, indicating I was hungry, but thinking if a cop was waiting for me ahead, he would find Paco behind the wheel. Paco took over with no argument, probably thinking we would all be better off with a savvier driver.

We drove past Toluca and the last 40 miles of the day were all two lane curvy roads, but beautiful country. Fourteen hours after we started, and just when I thought my rear end was going to explode, we saw a hillside with thousands of lights. After checking into a hotel in Taxco (TOSS-co), we joined hundreds of other people trying to find an empty taxi. For those of you that remember all the old VW bugs in Mazatlan 15 years ago, I know where they all went. They are used as taxis in Taxco. All the streets are narrow, cobblestone and either going up or down steep slopes. If there were any sidewalks, I never found them. After a late dinner, we enjoyed walking the plaza, and headed back to our rooms to bed.

The following morning we were up and on the streets at 7:00 a.m, and headed for the huge Saturday silver jewelry market. Paco insisted on being there early because he did not want to miss a particular silver bracelet salesman. About 3 blocks from the hotel we came into a labyrinth of stalls with a smattering of people spreading cloths and displaying their wares. After strolling around what seemed like miles of stalls, Paco split us into men and women teams. Immediately I knew it was not a “normal” shopping trip as I noticed Katherine did not stop every few feet and pickup and say “hello” to each piece of jewelry. Marta was given a grass basket and both her and Katherine frantically began examining bracelets and tossing them into the container.

Paco and I found a man selling silver necklace charms with beautiful colorful stones. As fast as the man unrolled the charms from cloths, Paco made selections. Falling behind Paco asked me to help with the selections. Now my only experience with Jewelry purchase is paying for whatever Katherine selects. But after getting over my initial apprehension, I enthusiastically took on the challenge. Within minutes I picked up each charm, carefully examined it, sniffed, and dropped it into our basket. Paco told the man that he was to package the goods and we would return in a few minutes to pay him and pick them up.

Our next stop was a bracelet guy where we went through the same process. We found a man selling jewelry boxes and picture frames. By this time I considered myself an expert and discussed the merits of the craftsmanship of the picture frames. By 10:00 a.m. we were really up close and personal with the hundreds of shoppers. It was so close that I could not only tell the brand of cologne used, but those that skipped a shower that morning. We wormed our way through the passageways and picked up all our jewelry purchases and went for a late lunch. Since Paco was served long after the three of us, I decided to carry all the jewelry back to the hotel. Katherine and I went back to the hotel to flake out and Paco and Marta continued their shopping.

At 5:00 p.m. we rented a taxi for two hours and saw the beautiful sites of the city. All of the houses are painted white with a terra cotta trim and roof. We went to the highest points and looked down on the city, both during the day and after darkness set in.

On Sunday we slept in, and after breakfast we drove a few miles to Calahuamilpa National Park. We took a two and a half hour tour of the largest caverns I have ever seen. We walked 2.4 miles round trip through the cave. Our guide, using a flashlight pointed out rock formations of people, objects, and animals. Sometimes he used the flashlight to make amusing figures move about on the large cavern walls. It was an exciting, but long walk, and we were glad when it was time to return to the van and continue our trip.

By the time we arrived at the home of Marta’s parents in La Magdalena de los Reyes, it was way past lunch time, but they waited for us. The first thing I noticed was the extreme cold, both inside and outside the house. We enjoyed a delicious meal and went on a tour of the previous hometowns of Paco and Marta. We stopped at a central market where the main sale items were woven wool blankets, rugs, sweaters, scarves, gloves and slippers. As expected, we met numerous relatives of both Paco and Marta, but also as expected, remembered few of their names. We had a dinner of pork, pineapple, and cheese between tortillas, called Gringa at Paco’s cousin’s café, and then went to Pacos brother’s house where we stayed.

Monday we had some delicious tamale at the home of Marta’s parents and rented a car and driver to take us to Mexico City. Katherine and I were surprised to travel through mountainous roads lined with large evergreen trees, much like Western Washington State, enroute to Mexico City. Suddenly we reached a large valley with nothing but buildings, people and cars. Unfortunately, Castillo de Chapultepec was closed, so we found a parking garage in the center of the city and walked a block to the 42 floor Mirador Torre Latino tower. We went to the observation deck and had a breathtaking, panoramic view of the entire city. By the time we got down on the street there was a labor demonstration that blocked traffic, so we hopped in a cab and visited the Museo de Cera de la Cuidad de Mexico, which is a wax museum of figures of importance in Mexico and the rest of the world. Next door we visited Ripley’s Believe it or not Museum. It was helpful to have Paco translate.

Paco and Marta wanted to go to the city center so they could buy some novelties that their Mexican customers would be interested in purchasing during Easter week. The market center was about as crowded, but bigger than Taxco. We bought about six large bags of merchandise and hired a man who loaded them on a dolly and weaved his way through the crowd, trying to find a taxi. Just at the point of exhaustion, we saw two cyclo’s with drivers (a bicycle, with an attached compartment large enough for two passengers). We loaded our packages, and headed for the parking lot where we picked up the car and driver and went back to Paco’s brother’s home. After freshening up we found another cousin’s café and had a meal of tacos—while meeting more relatives. I don’t think I will ever get used to eating a heavy meal at 9 p.m.

Tuesday morning we said goodbye to all those relatives we met and said hello to on Monday, and stopped in the market in Santiago and had a breakfast of lamb and tortillas, called “Barbecoa.” After a leisurely drive we arrived in Dolores Hidalgo at about 1 p.m. and immediately went to the Talavera factory. On the floor, by the office were a large number of pieces of Talavera. Paco pointed out items to purchase and Marta, Katherine and I squirreled them away in a corner. We had a quick lunch at a nearby restaurant and when we arrived back at the factory, workers were busily wrapping our merchandise in newspaper. While 3 of us loaded the van, Katherine special ordered a 6’ X 4 1/2’ tile mural. Once loaded we headed down the highway. At about 10:30 p.m. we arrived in Tonala and began looking for a hotel. The first place was unsatisfactory, but we found vacancies at a nice hotel called Casa de las Palomas, which had secure parking.

Wednesday we were up and out the door by 8:15 a.m. We went to the plaza and had some delicious ham and eggs at an outdoor café. Paco’s usual glassware shop had few selections. We placed an order for about half her stock and got directions to the factory. Paco ordered a great deal of glassware and the factory owner promised it would be available at 7 the following morning. Again we split up and the women went shopping for more glassware, while Paco and I went to Guadalajara to have running boards installed on his van. The area we went to had blocks of parts and accessory stores. We met up with the women, and loaded their purchases in the van and did some personal shopping. Katherine found a colorful leaded glass hanging lamp for her kitchen. For the first time on the trip we had dinner and were back in our rooms by 9 p.m.

Thursday morning Paco and I were at the glass factory at 7 a.m. while the women were back on the streets looking for more glassware. While the employees wrapped the glassware, Paco and I placed it carefully in the van. By the time we finished we discovered there was little room for any other buys the women made. We hurried to the market and Paco rushed off to stop them from making any more purchases. By the time Paco found them more glassware was in hand so we hired a man to wagon them to the van where we held our breath while placing them into the vehicle. Fortunately we were able to fit in all of the glassware. We happily headed down the highway, and at 6:30 p.m. pulled into Mazatlan with a full load of merchandise and countless memories to last us a lifetime.


Charles A Hall
Author: "Mazatlan IS Paradise"

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

Title: How to Get Your New Passport

Author: William Manor
Article:
You should apply for a new passport if:
  • You are applying for a U.S. passport for the first time.
  • Your previous U.S. passport was lost, stolen, or damaged.
  • Your previous U.S. passport has expired & was issued more than 15 years ago.
  • Your previous passport has expired and it was issued when you were under 16.
  • Your name has changed since your passport was issued and you do not have a legal document formally changing your name.
To apply for a new passport, you need to provide the following items:
1. Completed Form-DS11, Application for Passport.
Read directions carefully. Check everything twice or, even, three time. You wouldn´t want your application denied for a simple thing like not signing the application.
2. Proof of U.S. Citizenship.
The two most frequently used documents to prove citizenship are a previous U.S. passport or a certified birth certificate. If you do not have one of these, you can provide a Consular Report of Birth Abroad, Naturalization Certificate or a Certificate of Citizenship.
Voter registration cards and army discharge papers are not acceptable proof of citizenship.
3. Proof of identity.
A previous U.S. passport can also serve to prove your identity. If you do not have one, you can provide a Naturalization Certificate, Certificate of Citizenship, a current, valid Driver´s license, government ID or military ID.
4. Two passport photos.
The two photos must be 2 x 2 inches, identical, taken within the last 6 months. The photos must show a full face, front view with a plain white or off-white background.
You should dress in normal street attire. Uniforms other than religious retire that is worn daily, hats, headgear and dark glasses are not acceptable. Prescription glasses with clear lenses may be worn.
5. Applicable fees.
The passport fee is $55. The security surcharge is $12. The execution fee is $30. The total is $97.
When applying at one of the thousands of designated application acceptance facilities in the U.S., you pay the passport fee and the security surcharge to the ''U.S. Department of State'' and the execution fee to the facility where you are applying. Acceptable forms of payment vary.
Fees are non-refundable.
6. Social security number.
If you do not provide your Social Security Number, the Internal Revenue Service may impose a $500 penalty.
If your passport was lost or stolen, you must also provide a completed Form DS-64: Statement Regarding Lost or Stolen Passport.
After gathering the documentation, take it to one of the more than 6,000 passport acceptance facilities where an acceptance agent will witness the signing of the application.
Regular passport processing takes about 6 weeks. This is not guaranteed and may extend to 3 months or more.
About the author:
William Manor of U.S. Passport Service Guide reviews private travel document expediters and provides comprehensive passport, visa and destination information for international travelers.
Passport, travel visa and destination information for international travelers.